My accommodation for three nights is named in its honour.Villa Borobudur is located on a mountainside just 3km south of the temple. In fact, the view of is amazing, including the ring of four majestic volcanoes surrounding the plain: Sumbing, Sindoro, Merbabu and Merapi.Even with all that detail, you’ll probably be done by 8am, which means you not only beat the heat but the tour buses, too.

injav teen massage-73

Our ride begins four kilometres from the summit, in the middle of an ash-covered regrowth forest.

From there, we head directly down the mountain – at a fair clip, too – crossing streams and braving the narrow dirt tracks on the edges of paddy fields.

After a brilliant breakfast of Javanese pancakes and I set out on an easy two-hour hike up Menoreh, the hill that rises gently behind Villa Borobudur. It was a significant time for him in many ways, not all of them negative: his son was born four days before Merapi blew its top.

Following a muddy trail through thin jungle, I chat with Saeful, my chilled-out guide. After the walk, I relax in the serene surrounds of Villa Borobudur and enjoy a one-hour Javanese massage (another freebie for every guest staying three nights or more.) If you’ve got itchy feet, there’s plenty more you can do: go rafting, try pottery, visit a waterfall, or do a city tour of Yogyakarta.

Dinner is again exceptional: a banquet platter of local dishes served around The call to prayer wakes me again the next morning, but instead of slowly drifting back to sleep, this time I drag myself out of bed and switch on the coffee machine.

The villa has arranged a special sunrise excursion to Borobudur.Some books imply that Sir Stamford Raffles “re-discovered” Borobudur in 1814.In fact, locals were well aware of the temple’s existence.Soon, a loudspeaker has clicked on in every mosque in every village and the entire valley is filled with dozens of calls to prayer. (Hopefully I’ll need neither.) We pass by small plots of tomatoes, papaya and the wonderfully hot and fruity chillies that go into the .In the still, starry night, it’s an incredibly atmospheric thing. One by one, the muezzins finish their calls and I drift off once more until an enthusiastic rooster wakes me instead. Saeful speaks briefly of the devastating effects of the 2010 eruption.It’s incredible that two such monumental temple complexes representing two different religions were constructed in the same area at around the same time.