It is just 20 minutes away from San Javier airport, the beautiful beaches of the Mar Menor and the Mediterranean, and is less than 30 minutes away from the ancient port of Cartagena with its fantastic Roman theatre and Murcia City with its baroque cathedral, tapas bars and shops.The Resort consists of apartments, townhouses and villas set in beautifully landscaped gardens with boulevards, gardens and fountains and is built around a Nicklaus designed golf course.

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This wine's estate was hit by a volcano in 1981, but now a wall of lava is protecting an amazing patch of old vines. "I don't have any tattoos, but I can still serve weird wine.""We're in Spain now," says the distributor as he pours his 16th wine, a red called Planetes de Nin, made from 70 percent garnacha and 30 percent carignena. He ends with a 2012 Alto Adige from Elena Walch Family Estates. There's a lot more to building a wine list than just choosing the wines. We even try out different wine cradles, which are like little lounge chairs for older bottles, so they can lie tilted, which helps drain the sediment to one side so the sommelier can more easily avoid it as she lifts the cradle and pours the wine.

That wine was made on a farm with chickens and yurts. Every detail matters, from the thickness of the glass (a delicate rim is better — less obstruction between the wine and your taste buds — but too delicate invites money lost on broken glasses) to the shape of the decanter. Chang has set up a mock service to test all of this; a conference room in her office building has become the restaurant, lights dimmed, candles flickering on the table.

So someone in Portugal came up with this brilliant idea to use red-hot tongs that break the neck of the bottle.

With a bit of pressure, the glass breaks off cleanly so you can pour." She laughs again.

By this point, she's tasted thousands of wines, brought in her favorites for final tastings and, with the help of her wine team, including talented sommeliers Miranda Elliot and Scott Tyree, chosen a list of about 30 wines by the glass.

The wines by the bottle (about 300 at opening, building to 800 soon) include older vintages the team purchased from collectors and at auction.Her dinner parties, friends tell me, are legendary; she's been known to fill up the bathtub with bottles of Champagne and saber them for guests.She'll be sabering at Maple & Ash, part of another playful feature: a collection of vintage, often long-forgotten wine tools on a cart that Chang is cheekily calling a "wine operating table." Ask and she'll roll it up to your table and turn opening your bottle into a show."I'll have swords and a bunch of vintage corkscrews," she says. A lot of older corks weren't built to age and, after time, became impossible to extract without crumbling.To some in the industry, the word "steakhouse" comes with a lot of baggage, mostly full of uninspiring merlot. But Maple & Ash is part of a steakhouse renaissance: Like Swift & Sons, Boeufhaus and Prime & Provisions, it's trying to reclaim the concept for a new generation."I was telling some friends who were like, 'Really? The challenge for a wine director at any of these spots lies in marrying classic — the Duckhorn merlots of the world — with unexpected; it's picking the mix that will reel in the Logan Square types without scaring off the Gibsons-goers.a tough job, or at least one you need years of training to do. Very tannic." "Now I could chug outside on the patio." Some wines get a second look at the bottle and a few scribbles in blue ink on the tasting sheet in front of her."I'm not a fan of wines that have been manipulated just to be crazy, like, 'It's orange! But if there's something that's funky but still well-made, I'm into it. (It doesn't make the final list; a 2013 gewurztraminer from the same estate wins out.)The distributor packs up and rolls his suitcase out; the next one rolls his in.